Today started with a bit of a long drive up in to Nitmiluk National Park – the traditional lands of the Jawoyn people. We headed to the western side of the Nitmiluk, to the absolutely stunning Leliyn (Edith Falls). These falls defy the idea of a hot, dry desert in the Northern Territory – everything around here is lush and green, and the waterfalls are flowing fast. The two waterholes you can swim in are just huge!
We started with the loop walk, known as the Leliyn Track, around the waterholes and the Edith River. It’s a bit over 2.5km, and there’s quite a bit of climbing, but it was a beautiful walk. The last huge walk we did was back at Kings Canyon – that was in a little bit of a cold patch for Central Australia, and it was only 19º that day. Let me tell you, it was not that cool today. Not sure what the temperature was when we left the carpark for the walk, but once we returned, it was 30º! The walk takes you up to the upper pool where you can swim – and there was quite a few people on their way there, ready to swim! There were a few moments of wishing we’d done the same as well. We enjoyed the different views across the top of Edith River, and then made our way back down. We spotted a few stunning little lizards on the way down – they looked like mini frilled-neck lizards!
Once we got back down, we were all well and truly ready for a swim. The main waterhole in Leliyn is huge, and very deep – but perfect for just floating in with our pool noodles. However, it definitely wasn’t the warmth of yesterday’s Bitter Springs – it was quite cold! Unfortunately the boys weren’t super keen for a swim all the way across the waterhole to the falls – but Eliza was. Debbie very kindly offered to stay back with the boys and Eliza and I swam all the way to the base of the falls. It was a long swim, and a bit tiring, but it was an amazing experience! We took our waterproof disposable camera for its first run – we’ll definitely look forward to seeing those photos when we get back home!
This afternoon we headed just up the road from where we’re staying to the Top Didj Cultural Experience. It was started by a couple who wanted to help Aboriginal people have a way to share their culture, stories and art with people who might visit Katherine.
The afternoon started as we met Manuel, a Dalabon man – the lands of the Dalabon people are found roughly to the north-east of Katherine. He shared his childhood story with us of growing up on the land and in the bush – learning about the life and culture of his people from his parents, his aunties and uncles, and other elders. What was so interesting for us is that he guesses that he’s about 65 years old – he doesn’t know his exact date of birth, because until he moved into the town of Katherine when he was in his 20s, the actual date you were born is something that just wasn’t important to his family or his people!
He then started to teach us about the art he is so passionate about (and so good at). For the Dalabon people, and a lot of other Aboriginal peoples around Arnhem Land, art is based on lines. (Whereas, for example, down closer to Alice Springs is far more about dots.) He talked us through the techniques that he uses, and we even got to use a piece of reed that has been formed into a very thin brush for lines. There were a few different animals or plants we could choose from – all based on the different bush foods that he grew up with in his childhood. I chose to paint a turtle, Eliza an echidna (of course), Daniel a frog, Alexander chose a freshwater croc, and Debbie chose water lillies. Manuel was great at coming around and helping and guiding us, especially the kids. It was such a wonderful experience, and the kids were so happy with their finished paintings!
To finish off the afternoon together, we learnt how he makes fire with two pieces of hibiscus wood (handy to know if we ever get onto Survivor and lose our flint!), and then also how to throw a spear – both were so much fun, and Manuel was really generous with getting the kids to go first each time and encouraging them.
It was a really special and wonderful afternoon. These type of stories about how Aboriginal peoples have lived on their lands outside of towns and cities are things we’ve probably all heard before – but how authentic are they really? And are we just assuming they’re all the same? It was so wonderful to hear first hand from a man who grew up with his family in the bush (as he called it!), and what he remembers of his experience of that. And again, it felt so humbling to be able to share in different parts of Manuel’s culture and his art that are clearly so central to his life and who he is.
I love this so much!!! What a wonderful opportunity for you all ❣️ The people in our tribe also do not know their ages. We now record the date of each baby born and Karin is slowly working away on putting together a timeline of the ppl – they can tell you who is older or younger than themselves.